Advanced Lotion Tutorial – Susan Elliott

Once you have the basic of lotion making down, you can graduate to this:
For the water phase you want to have 300-335 grams of liquid. I break it down as follows:
  • 240 grams aloe vera juice
  • 15 grams glycerin (if you know how to use Hydrovance and how it behaves you can sub it for glycerin but don’t use it if you don’t know how it behaves and then sodium lactate becomes mandatory instead of optional).
  • 10 grams aloe vera gel
  • 20 grams chamomile hydrosol (or any hydrosol or increase water or aloe vera juice)
  • 15 grams sodium lactate
  • 25 grams honey quat
  • 10 grams hydrolyzed protein (some proteins such as wheat and oat have a very strong scent. some people hate it. investigate it completely before adding it, it’s optional)
  • at the end of the water phase add .5 grams allatonin and if you’re adding d-panthenol in powder form, add it here. In liquid form, add it at the end
For the oil phase:
You can use whatever oils you like for 100 grams of oils and butters. I recommend using some oils like broccoli seed oil, rosehip oil, wheatgerm oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, meadowfoam oil, olive squalane, cocoa butter, shea butter, mango butter
For the emulsifiers: use 35 grams of emulsifiers such as polawax, ewax, conditioning emusifier, veggie emulsifier, BTMS, stearic acid or some combination thereof. If you’re just graduating to advanced lotion making, keep your regulars such as ewax and stearic acid, which is what most beginners start with. You can also use a little bit of beeswax but not much as it can leave you with a sticky feeling esp if you’re using glycerin as well.
  • Add 20 grams of cetyl alcohol (you can use whatever you like for the first 35 grams of emulsifier but the second 20 should be cetyl alcohol)
  • 15 grams Isopropyl myristate (optional but I like the feel it gives to the lotion)
For the cool down phase:
  • Approx 8 grams Liquid Germall Plus or the guidelines for whatever preservative you’re using. If you’ve left out some of the liquid ingredient or added more, adjust your preservative amount to account for it.
  • 8 grams Vitamin E
  • 15 grams d-panthenol if using in liquid form
  • 5-24 grams “extracts” (green tea, chamomile, aloe)
For this lotion I used a very light White Tea & Ginger scent. I used half of the recommended usage.
The video is here:

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